| So what was the trek like? |
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BIG THANKS to Mountain Equipment in Manchester & Global Adventurer in Forest Row who kindly gave me discount on equipment - it was very much appreciated. |
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Well the simple answer to that question is, awesome! It was certainly an amazing experience, that I will remember for my lifetime - the sights and sounds of Nepal, the stunning scenery, (the toilets!) and the wonderful people. There were ten people in our intrepid group. A great mix of young and not so young (26 to 57 years). I was truly blessed and couldn't have wished for a nicer tent-mate in Dorthe. A lovely Danish girl who was always fun to be with and had a smile on her face - even when it was -20C at night...brrr! A big shout out also to the rest of the so-called "A-Team" - Ruth and Sukhpal, it was fun trekking with you guys. I look forward to meeting up again soon. |
Our fun started in Kathmandu 1300m (4265ft), after flying in via Abu Dhabi (a smokers paradise, yuk!) from Heathrow, London. We had a spare afternoon, after dumping our gear off at the Hotel in Thamel, to check out the sights. A two hour "touristy" scenic tour was kindly arranged and we saw things such as the Monkey Temple (yes, there are hundreds of wild monkeys everywhere), and the Hindu quarter which was very interesting with the ceremonial cremations which were taking place . Our "very well English spoken" Nepalese guide certainly knew a thing or two and made the tour worthwhile. |
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After being woken up very early in the morning (we'd get used to that over the coming two weeks) we made our way to Kathmandu airport for one of the most amazing (and scary!) flights I've ever been on (and I've been on a few now). We were delayed a couple of hours, but then after the Kathmandu mist had cleared we flew to Lukla 2800m (9186ft), at the end of the Khumbu valley. Stunning scenery of the Himalayas including a glimpse of the third highest mountain in the World off to the East, Kanchenjunga (8598m) was the order of the day. The pilot probably received the biggest cheer of the expedition when he successfully landed the plane on the tiny air strip on the side of the mountain and successfully avoided hitting the brick wall at the end! All our gear was being carried by Yaks - well, actually "Dzopkyo", a cross-bred Yak-cow. Yaks are very useful to the Sherpas. In addition to their role as load carriers, their wool is woven into blankets and ropes, dung is burned as fuel and female yaks give high quality milk. Since Yaks are relatives of the cow, their slaughter is prohibited in Nepal, but when one of these sure-footed animals "falls off the trail" their tasty meat makes it's way into steaks and burgers - very nice it was too! |
We then trekked for three hours for our first overnight stop at Phakding 2652m (8701ft). A very pretty place next to a river and just over one of those hairy wooden-rope-swing bridges. That night everyone complained of the cold - the Sherpas told us that this was nothing and it would get a lot worse. We didn't believe them, but little did we know?! As every night, the wonderful Sherpas had already pitched our tents and had some tasty food (I soon found out if you didn't like Garlic (supposedly helps with the affects of high altitude), you would go very hungry the next 12 days - good job I do!) waiting for us. Our head tour-guide "AJ" then gave us the low-down on the events the next day and told us a few amusing stories, which we never knew whether they were true or not - does anyone know whether he was married with four kids or not? Each morning the Sherpas
would wake us at approx 6am with a cheery "Namaste", a cup of tea and
then bring us round a small bowl of warm water to wash with. They would then
pack up our tents, whilst we ate Breakfast - what great service! |
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| The second day of
trekking turned out to be one of the hardest. We entered into the Sagarmatha
National Park (Sagarmatha is the Nepalese name for Everest and means "Mother
Goddess of the sky"), passed through gorges, tree
lined valleys and wooded paths alongside the rushing waters of the Dudh Kosi
river. It was the long climb up to Namche Bazaar 3420m (11220ft) at the
end of the day which proved to be the challenge. Namche Bazaar is the
picturesque administrative centre of the Khumbu region, with many shops and places to
stay, perched on the mountain side.
The climb to Namche takes you from a "safe" altitude to one in which altitude sickness is a real danger, so because of this we had an "acclimatisation" day the next day. We thought, great a chance to "chill-out" but no, this meant climbing to a higher altitude and then coming back down to sleep that night. We therefore climbed to the Japanese "Everest View Hotel" for a cuppa tea. This gave us our first view of the mighty mountain (hence the name!) and what a view it was. This is where we first felt the affects of altitude - headaches and shortness of breath, but the stunning views whetted our appetite for the days ahead. |
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On the fourth day we spent most of the day gazing at Ama Dablam 6814m as we trekked, quite simply the most beautiful mountain in the Khumbu region. Described as the "Matterhorn" of the Himalayas and it was easy to see why - most of us wasted a few films of pics snapping shots of her from every angle. In the afternoon we climbed higher through the swirling cloud (generally the weather was great in the mornings, but the mist/cloud blew up the valley in the afternoons) and snow flurries to the Tengboche Monastery 3867m (12687ft). After having a quick peek inside (for some reason it smelt of sweaty feet?!) we made our way down for our overnight stay at Deboche. |
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On the fifth day we
trekked to Dingboche 4358m (14257ft), where we'd also spend our second
"acclimatisation" day. Dingboche was where I first started really feeling
the affects of high altitude and the lack of oxygen - a thumping headache,
loss of appetite and shortness of breath. You could really feel your heart
racing, trying to pump extra blood round your body with much needed oxygen,
when lying in bed at night. I decided to start taking "Diamox" here to help
me acclimatise and lessen the pounding in my brain.
This was also the place where my "gut" (the politest way to describe it!) problems began and would continue to plague me for the next five days, sapping me of much needed strength. No matter how much imodium or other weird and wonderful stomach remedies that were kindly given to me - nothing would stop the flow. Frequent dashes to the toilet (if you can call it that - basically a hole dug in the ground which you crouched over trying your hardest not to fall into!? - there was a tale we were told about an unfortunate American girl and a rotten wooden toilet floor, but I won't go into that!) and the nearest convenient boulders en route - enough said, me thinks! |
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Every day we were told by AJ to try and drink at least four litres of water. The atmosphere at high altitude is so dry, it sucks the moisture out of your body and dehydration can be a real problem - checking the colour of your pee was the order of the day?! On the sixth day we stayed put in Dingboche and had our second acclimatisation day. Those who were up to it (sadly not me), which included the amazing mountain goat Dorthe, climbed up to the Namartsang Peak 5083m providing views of Makalu 8463m - the World's fourth highest mountain. On the seventh day we watched the stunning sunrise through Ama Dablam's twin peaks and then trekked to Lobuche 4928m (16167ft) beside the Khumbu Glacier. We were now well above the tree line or where anything could possibly grow and survive in these harsh conditions. There were amazing views of 8000m+ mountains in all directions. The day was rounded off by a gorgeous sunset on the mountains opposite our tents. Every night it had been getting increasingly colder and we'd spend the evenings huddling around the Yak-dung stove in the local tea house trying to keep warm. Everything would freeze in the tent overnight - including the hot boiling drinking water (all water was boiled to get rid of any nasties that lurked within) which was given to us the night before, my contact lenses, soap - you name it, it froze! We would wake up in the night with ice on the inside of the tent from our breath and our sleeping bags covered in frost - the frequent trips to the loo (Diamox makes you pee a lot) were a pain to say the least . We all also took our cameras to bed with us, trying to preserve the batteries which get drained at such very low temperatures (-22C was reported!) and suffered from sleep deprivation and when we did sleep, the weirdest of dreams - another side affect of altitude sickness. We had now also not washed properly
for nearly a week (it was too cold to expose any amount of flesh - so your
"base layer" stayed the same), but hey, everyone smelled the same - my cap was
stuck permanently to my head, well that was my story anyway. My hair felt so
gross, I doubt anyone complained!? |
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| So onto the
eighth day, the day we'd all been waiting for. We left at 5:30am in the
morning in the pitch dark and freezing cold, aided by head torches and
fumbled our way along the path following our trusted Sherpa, Bindra (the
man!) and the always cheerful Sherpa, Cheering . We made it to Gorak Shep, the original base camp for the Swiss
expedition in 1952, by breakfast. After some much needed porridge to refuel
us (and a quick last dash to the loo for me!), we then set out for Kala
Pattar 5545m (18192ft). It certainly was hard work getting up there, but the amazing views of Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse made it all worth while. It has to be said, by now, I was severely struggling with lack of energy having been bothered by the "runs" for so many days. It was only my fitness - the hours spent running early in the morning at weekends, in the pouring rain, training in the UK - that got me to the top. I literally had to climb up ten paces and then stop to catch my breath from the oxygen-depleted air, before continuing. My legs felt like lead weights and every single movement was a major effort. You can do nothing but stand back and admire Sir Edmund Hillary and others like him, who have climbed to the summit of Everest itself. It is a truly amazing achievement. |
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I finally got back to my tent at 4pm and collapsed with exhaustion. Only Dorthe (she can't be human, surely?) made it to Kaka Pattar and the present day base camp with the help of Chett (our Sirdar - chief Sherpa), returning after dark. Well impressive, especially as there aren't many mountains in Denmark! We then spent a freezing evening in our dining tent celebrating our day's achievements and Sandy's 57th birthday!
Over the next three days we made our way
back along the same route, elated and enjoying the ever-increasing oxygen-rich air, as we descended back to Lukla. Much fun was had by the "A Team",
in one of Lukla's bars, knocking back a few cocktails between happy hour
(3-5pm!) and dancing to Bob Marley before the curfew kicked in at 6pm, because of
the threat of Maoist terrorists in Nepal at this time. That evening (those of
us who were still able to stand?!) enjoyed a party with the Sherpas and
presented them with their very well-earned tips. We also enjoyed the luxury of not staying under canvas and sleeping in a tea house
that night ...but did anyone hear
the rats scampering around during the night, like me? |
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The second loudest cheer
of the expedition was reserved for the pilot as we took off successfully
from Lukla airport en-route to Kathmandu, on the final day. He literally
put the handbrake on, revved up the engines to full power and then let the
handbrake
off - hoping (and we were praying) that he got enough speed up before the
short runway ran out....aah! After a much needed shower in the same Kathmandu hotel...YEAH! (how great was that?), a quick chance to celebrate Dorthe's birthday with a B'Day cake, and a couple of hours Christmas shopping, it was back to Kathmandu airport for the long haul home via Abu Dhabi and Bahrain, to Heathrow and home. We met so many lovely, happy, smiling children along the way on the trek, and thanks to so many people's generosity, the money raised will hopefully put a smile back on the faces of other children across the world ...THANKS :-) |
Want to see more Pez Pics?: (click on the following four links): Photos, PhotosII, PhotosIII & PhotosIV - I have many more great photos, just give me a shout if you wanna see more |
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| Want more info? Trek itinerary (.pdf file - acrobat required): EBCT Where on earth is it?: Everest area map Where does the trek go?: Trek area map |
Acute Mountain Sickness: AMS High Altitude Notes: HAN Everest panoramic views: Panoramas |
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Every
penny you donate will help give a child hope and put a smile :-) back on their
face... Many thanks - Pete Townson |