The Trek

Kilimanjaro...the story:

"Life's an adventure, not a worry" - Anon

A welcome nights sleep in the comfy hotel bed was enjoyed by all and then it was time for the BIG one...we were driven by bumpy bus to the start of the "Umbwe" route. Another mad dash to the loo was in order upon arrival and then we watched as all our kit for the thirteen of us was distributed between the 53 porters!

Kilimanjaro (Kilima Njaro (Swahili)/Oldoinyo Oibor (Masai) or simply "Kili") is not only the highest mountain in Africa, it's also one of the biggest volcanoes on Earth, covering approx. 388,500 hectares. In this area are three main peaks that betray it's origins as the offspring of three huge volcanic eruptions. The first oldest and smallest peak is Shira, which is located on the western edge of the mountain. The second, which can be found to the east, is Mawenzi, a single lump of jagged, craggy rock emerging from an area known as the Saddle. The summit plateau gently rises from west to east until it reaches the third, youngest and main peak on Kili, known as Kibo.

Kibo is the best preserved crater on Kili. It's southern lip is slightly higher than the rest of the rim and the highest point on this lip is Uhuru Peak - the highest point in Africa and the goal of just about everyone who sets foot on Kili, including us. The sad fact is, only a third of people succeed. The outer Kibo crater is not a perfect, unbroken ring. There are gaps in the summit where the walls have been breached by lava flows. The most dramatic of these is the Western Breach, through which we would be gaining access to the summit near the end of the Umbwe route.

We set off from the gate at 1400m (4590ft) and began our trek through, at first a cultivated area on a 4WD forestry track before it narrowed and steepened onto a ridge between the Lonzo and Umbwe rivers. We spent the day spotting Monkeys and playing "guess the person name games" (remember Nic - dead male...), whilst being surrounded by a rich and dark forest. Great fun was had using the roots of trees as rungs on a ladder to haul us up the steepest part of the trek. The track weaved a steady climb upto the Forest Caves campsite at 3000m (9840ft). The Umbwe route may well be steepest and hardest route up Kili, but it was certainly so much more scenic than the busy Marangu tourist route and we were all glad we'd chosen this option.

We dumped our bags off in our tents (I was sharing a tent with Owen, a top guy, who didn't snore (yey, I could get some kip!) and is currently serving in the army) and that night celebrated Graham's 60th Birthday with a very tasty cake which had been carried up by one of the porters. We then settled down to sleep listening out for the snorts of wild boars (no not fellow trekkers snoring!). Tomorrow we'd be heading up over 3000m, which is when high altitude starts to tap you on the head and make his presence known...ouch!

We were up and off early as usual and continued on the track through the forest before it reared up onto a steep narrow ridge with deep valleys on either side. The views were spectacular of the African plains below and gave us a distinct high mountain feel. The flora was very unusual, with African Walnut trees draped in "goats beard" (or Philious Fogg as we called it - don't ask?) moss. The huge ravine of the great Baranco dropped away on the one side and as we came out of the bush at 3000m, we were greeted by the awesome view ahead of the Breach Wall of Kili. Only the great mountaineer Reinhold Messner and a few mad others have attempted to climb this. It was at this point we were now onto the high moorland and the character of the trek completely changed.

By mid-afternoon we reached the Baranco hut (no more than a tin shack!) at 3900m (12790ft). Our tents were there waiting for us along with a welcome cuppa tea and popcorn! There was a chance to chill out, drink in the view of Kibo up close and enjoy the fresh mountain air (as well as the occasional stench of urine from the toilet hut down wind below!?).

The next day we stayed put and enjoyed an acclimatisation day which involved a few hours climbing up the Baranco Wall to see the southern glaciers of Kili and Mt Meru in the distance.

Sadly, by this point, there was a fair bit of sickness and diarrhoea going around camp and only a few of us managed to make it as high as the guide John took us. My head was starting to pound and my guts were on the move like the scree on the slopes under foot (but thankfully not as bad as in Nepal last year?!). It was good practise scrambling over the terrain for what we were going to have to tackle on summit day. In the afternoon, again there was a chance to relax before the real action started. Heather and I tried to remember a few card games, without much success (it was the altitude you know!) and again enjoyed breathing in that mountain air...mmm...

Arrow camp at 4800m (15740ft) was the destination the next day and it was reached shortly after lunch. We were now in the Alpine desert area. We had tremendous views of the Breach Wall to the right and the Western Breach, our route to the summit -all 1000m of it reaching up above our heads as far as we could see. Mungo chatted to us about the task ahead of us over dinner and about "the point of no-return" where we'd have to make the decision whether to go for the summit or not. This was a rocky outcrop we'd have to scramble up after a couple of hours and could only get back down by being short-roped.

At Arrow camp the wind was blowing a gale most of the time. Sitting in the tent perched on the side of the mountain so high up, feeling nauseous, with a splitting headache, listening to the tent flapping around, made you realise you really were on an extreme expedition. Over the coming hours we all tried to get some sleep, without much success. Feeling like pants...& probably smelling like them too...we hadn't washed properly for days, but our noses were so full of soft black volcanic dust, we couldn't tell?! (Owen was also feeling particularly dodgy by now) and the buzzing anticipation of what lay ahead, made it almost impossible.

We were aroused by Mungo at 23:30 and told to get kitted up. On went the numerous layers and we all rendezvoused in the mess tent. After a cuppa Milo, at 0:30, on went the head torches and we departed for our second big mountain day of the trip. 6+ hours of climbing lay ahead of us before we'd reach the top of the Western Breach. Once again the star lit sky was simply breathtaking. It was practically impossible to pick out constellations because there was millions of stars everywhere. Just the shadow of the mountain ahead of us partially obscured our view of the Heavens above.

With the biting wind and as as my Camel back froze, it wasn't long before I realised that it was a colder night than Mt Meru.

I was wishing I'd put on that extra fleece I'd discarded at the last moment. Oh ****! It has to be said, that the summit days on Kili and Meru are the hardest and most exhausting times I've had in my life. Climbing up the scree, frozen lava formations and rocky outcrops of the Western Breach which seemed to go on forever. At times the light headedness threatened to take over, and the words of Mungo "don't fall off" interspersing with the pounding in my brain, was quite frightening. Just before the summit we passed Graham, who'd left with Linda two hours before, and not long after a South African who couldn't even stand up. Two guys were simply dragging him up the slope. We later found out he'd been hit on the head by one of the rocks that occasionally flew down the Western Breach and wasn't just suffering from AMS.

Reaching the summit plateau as day broke was the best thing ever. Probably more satisfying than reaching Uhuru Peak itself. David, Miriam, Bob, Sarah, Nic, Heather and I huddled in a makeshift shelter and waited for the others, trying our upmost to keep warm, without much success. The cold wind was just too much, so after a short time John was persuaded let us carry on to the summit without waiting any longer.

We trudged along the crater rim, wrapped up as best we could and made the steep climb, zig-zagging on the scree up to Uhuru Peak. I will never forget the memories of poor Nic an all fours crawling up the last slope trying not to be sick and helping Heather, who was so cold and could hardly stand, to the summit.

It had been a truly monumental effort by everyone. When we caught our breath and looked at the stunning views of the glaciers and Mt Meru beyond on the horizon, which we'd only climbed the week before, we realised it had all been worth it. Sadly it was cloudy, so there was no view of the Serengeti way, way below. The fab news was everyone summitted, with the exception of Gill who'd made the sensible decision a few days earlier not to attempt it. She had taken an alternative route around the base of Kibo and met us at camp at the end of the day.

After a few obligatory photos in front of the Uhuru Peak sign, we left the summit following the tourist track along the crater rim to Stella Point. We then slipped and slid our way down the steep scree (which seemed to go on forever too!) and followed the path to Mweka Hut camp at 3100m (10170ft). The time was 13:30 and we'd been going some 13hrs. A long, but rewarding day. Sadly, the camp was all out of beer! We had to make do celebrating with another drink of water?!

The next day we trekked down through into the cloud and then rain forest, ending up in Mweka village. It wasn't long before we were being approached from every direction with offers of a souvenir t-shirt or carved Giraffe (or Guinness beer bottle handbag?!). There was still some Kilimanjaro Beer (very nice!) left here, so many of us couldn't resist a celebratory one J

One final bumpy bus ride took us back to the Keys Hotel, and no hot showers again (no water infact this time in most of the rooms - we later discovered the water tower in the back garden by the pool had sprung a leak?!). We were then proudly presented with our certificates and the porters their tips. Those of us who were up to it, then enjoyed a celebratory BBQ and a few beers (hey Heather - you were SO sick with everything imaginable throughout the trip. I hope you're better now, mate!).

After reading this, you may think that the trip wasn't much of a holiday (I lost 1/2 stone - yep, seems hard to believe that there's even less of me than there was before!). Anyone who knows me, knows that I like a challenge. Kili certainly was that. It was one of those life experiences that didn't seem that fun at the time, but when you look back you think...WOW! It is a thrill having climbed one of the "Seven Summits", even if it was one of the easiest, and I can't start to imagine how tough summiting Everest at 8850m (29,035ft) must truly be.

Rick Ridgeway's words ring true. Life's too short...there's just too much to do out there in the world to waste time lying on a beach or spend your whole life sitting in an office. Never get so busy making a living, that you forget to make a life..."Carpe Diem" - Seize the Day, I say...

After the stresses and strains of the mountaineering trip, I was pleased to have a couple of days living it up on Safari to look forward to (and GREAT it was too ...aah, the showers in the lodges!!). David, Miriam, Graham, Gill and I had a fantastic time exploring Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater and the Tangarire National Parks guided by our driver Arnold (not Swartz!). It was great to see more of the Tanzanian Countryside and towns, with the colourful Maasai and children beside the roads. I picked up my first injuries of the trip because Arnold seemed to forget he was only driving a 4WD mini bus, with not the best suspension, and dreamt at times he was Colin McRae in a Subaru Impreza flying down the dirt tracks. Needless to say, my head hit the roof a fair few times when I was sitting at the back of the bus and I gained a few bumps like the roads...

THANK Us: A BIG thanks to all the guys on the trip for making it such a memorable time. You were great. Especially Heather and Nic - I'll never forget the pain on your faces! Thanks Mungo for your professionalism and guidance on the Mountain, much appreciated. Well done to Graham for such an achievement on the anniversary of his 60th year on this planet! Thanks also to Jagged Globe for a fab trip (just a shame the flights back were such a nightmare...Gill was a star in spending so much time sorting it out...thanks J)

Want see more Kilimanjaro pics, checkout the following two links: Kili Pics I Kili Pics II

Many thanks - Pete Townson J Email: pete_townson@hotmail.com "Each new day brings new beginnings" - Anon